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Hindus
brides traditionally wore red-or gold-coloured and embroidered
lehngas (long skirts) and dupattas or saris of Benares silk, but there
were many local variations. In Palitana royal brides wore long green skirts
and blouses with long red scarves rather than saris. In Travancore a long
strip of white pleated cloth like a sarong, called a mundu, was worn tucked
between the legs. In Rajasthan brides wore saris or skirts of red or saffron,
the colour of the sacrificial flame. 'Saffron and red are the two Rajput
colours', explains the Maharani of Wankaner. 'Saffron is the colour that
ascetics wear and I found it awe-inspiring having to wear this saffron
sari, which I had to do every day, as well as all the jewelry from Wankaner,
part of which was an ivory bangle that you must always wear and which
means that your husband is so brave that he'll kill an elephant. In the
old days these bangles were worn from above the elbow down to the wrist.'
Every bride was required to wear five essential articles of jewelry:
So every bride was given these and told the significance and she had to wear them throughout her married life. The actual wedding ceremony itself, the kanyadan or 'giving away', usually took place on the fourth or fifth day in the courtyard of the City Palace, and was concentrated round the sacred fire lit under the marriage pavilion, culminating in the saptapadi or seven steps taken by bride and bridegroom round the fire. There were other marriage games that often involved the townspeople and local schools taking part in races and sports. For the important guests there would be shikar during the day and musical recitals, dancing and feasting in the evening. In a large state like Baroda which had its own arena in the town there were gladiatorial games that included wresting, combats between fighting rams and buffaloes and, as the climax, a fight between a pair of bull elephants on rut. The women would watch from behind chik blinds in the purdah enclosure: 'The elephant fights were more for show than anything else. People would wave strips of cloth and push them at each other but only rarely did they really fight, so it wasn't very frightful'. Prisoners also benefited from the marriage celebrations. In some state all were released, in others only a token number of the less serious offenders were pardoned. Once
the festivities were over a suitably auspicious moment had to be found
for the departure of the newly-weds together with their barat, now swelled
not only by the bride's dowry but by the maidservants from her father's
state who would be accompanying her to her new home, together with all
their families, chattels and live stock. Their departure to the local
railway station was once again done in great style, although in some parts
of Rajasthan the bride was taken away in secret - a relic of the uncertain
days of the past.
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